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Shower Faucet Won't Shut Off? Diagnose and Repair Guide

Is your shower faucet handle failing to completely stop the flow of water, despite rotating it into the off position? This leaky faucet issue can quickly lead to higher water bills, property damage from moisture, and mold growth. Read on as we cover how to properly diagnose and carry out DIY repairs on a 3-handle shower fixture that refuses to shut off.

Typically, one of three common problems causes shower faucets to continue dripping water after being switched off:

3 handle shower faucet won't turn off

Common Causes of 3-Handle Shower Faucets Continuing to Drip

Faulty Faucet Cartridge

Inside the handle fixture lives a plastic or brass cartridge component. This small part is responsible for regulating the flow of hot and cold water based on the handle position. Over many years of use, cartridges become worn out or mineral deposits cause them to stick.

When a faulty cartridge fails to fully stop water flow when rotated into the off position, it must be replaced. Signs include handles that seem to spin loosely without shutting the water or temperature fluctuations.

Swapping a malfunctioning over-the-counter or proprietary cartridge with an identical new one is a straightforward DIY fix for most homeowners. We'll cover the step-by-step process below.

Cracked or Worn Out Faucet Handle

The handles protruding from your shower wall grip the internal cartridge stem to control water flow. Cracks and wear cause handles to rock and wiggle over years of use. This prevents a tight enough seal on the underlying faucet stem to stop all water from streaming out.

Carefully inspect your fixture handles for cracks or excessive play/movement. Try firmly rotating handles into the closed position to detect any drips. Replace the actual handle component if faulty.

Stem and Washer Damage Inside Faucet

Deeper within the faucet unit lies additional components called the stem and washers. These connect the external handles to the interior cartridge. Corrosion and general wear affect a stem's ability to open and close. Leaky, smashed washers also cause improper water cutoff.

Getting eyes on these parts contained inside requires safely dismantling your shower faucet somewhat. We'll go over some diagnosis tips below to inspect these components.

Step-By-Step Diagnosis Process for a Leaky Shower

Before attempting to fix a stubborn shower yourself, smartly diagnose where the exact failure point exists.

Inspecting External Shower Faucet Components

Start simple by checking all exterior handles, trim, and fittings using the above criteria before delving into intricate innards. Grip each handle firmly and rotate from open to closed several times, feeling for stuck points or looseness.

If handles spin freely without fully stopping water, this indicates deeper-rooted stem or cartridge flaws. Some handle loosening and minor drips point to cracked handles ready for a quick swap-out.

Taking Apart Faucet to Access Internal Components

Safely removing shower trim pieces, handles, and interior housing gives visibility of the critical cartridge, seals and washers central to shutting water on and off.

Ensure water supply lines are switched off before dismantling any fixture. Have small baggies on hand to organize and track parts removed.

Refer to your owner's manual for model-specific methods before prying apart components willy-nilly and causing irreversible damage!

Locating Failure Points Internally

With full access established, use flashlights and probes like dental picks to inspect every square inch for trouble. Key areas for scrutiny include the thin rim of rubber washers sealing against valve seats and the rotating range of cartridges themselves.

Can individual washers or seals be replaced if obviously cracked or torn? Or does the entire cartridge unit show mineralization and require a full swap?

# Repairing Your Malfunctioning Shower Faucet

Once the underlying cause has been accurately pinpointed, execute the tailored repair process.

Replacing a Damaged Shower Faucet Cartridge

Most single-handle cartridges ($10-30) conveniently twist into place without tools. Three-handle types feature washers and inlet screens needing gentle removal before the new cartridge slides in.

Take photos of your unique setup before disassembling. Carefully label any stray parts that don't seem self-explanatory in their new home.

Changing Out Cracked or Worn Out Faucet Handles

Some shower handles screw into back-plate bases, while others rely on set-screw pressure against the valve stem. Check for screw heads or tiny Allen wrench ports along the handle base.

Scrub away grime before determining if the back-plate requires realignment or replacement in addition to the wobbly handle itself.

Fixing Stem and Washer Damage Internally

Rubber valve stem washers often slide off for individual replacement once the handle is removed. Carefully inspect metal stems for rotational smoothness or corrosion buildup before reinserting.

Use lithium grease and avoid over-tightening new washers during reassembly.

# Preventing Future Shower Leaks

Routinely Inspecting Your Faucets

Schedule a biannual walkthrough to spot handle cracks or looseness early, adjusting set screws or applying lubricants to maintain that like-new feel.

Replacing Old Seals and Washers Proactively

Expect to swap rubber seals and plastic cartridges each decade, avoiding outright fixture failure. Periodic replacement equals big water bill savings.

Consider commercial-grade fixtures instead of low-cost consumer models next time bathroom upgrades arise. Their durable metals and serviceable designs stand the test of time.

Nobody enjoys an endless shower they didn't sign up for. Hopefully this overview better prepares you to revive that leaky three-handle situation without breaking the bank or wasting too many towels.